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A travel guide to
Galapagos
tours, boats, cruises & yacht charters |
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"September 29th. -- We doubled the south-west extremity of
Albemarle Island, and the next day were nearly becalmed between it and
Narborough Island. Both are covered with immense deluges of black
naked lava, which have flowed either over the rims of the great
caldrons, like pitch over the rim of a pot in which it has been
boiled, or have burst forth from smaller orifices on the flanks; in
their descent they have spread over miles of the sea-coast. |
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The rocks on the coast abounded with great black lizards, between three and
four feet long; and on the hills, an ugly yellowish-brown species was equally
common. We saw many of this latter kind, some clumsily running out of the way,
and others shuffling into their burrows.... The whole of this northern part of
Albemarle Island is miserably sterile." - Charles Darwin, Voyage of the
Beagle
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Albemarle, 1880
Huyot & E. de Berard
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Tagus Cove is situated directly east of
Fernandina on the west coast of Isla Isabela.
It is a beautifully well
protected cove sheltered by the shoulders of two volcanic craters and has been
used as an anchorage for over 300 years.
Unfortunately, many of those old ships and even some more recent yachts have
left their marks with maritime graffiti along the crater walls. Historical artifacts
are not always pleasant to see.
However, as we pull quietly into the cove we see a pair of Flightless Cormorants huddled together near the landing site on a nest, and a Galapagos Hawk perched in a Palo Santo tree halfway up the crater rim.
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Soon after anchoring in the cove, our "marineros"
have the pangas ready for our cruise along the shore before our hike. We
immediately see a huge and vigorous feeding frenzy in the water that appears to
make the water boil with activity. The area between Isabela and Fernandina are
cold, rich waters abundant with sea life. It's a great area for observing
whales, dolphins and other marine organisms attracted by the abundance of food.
Part way along the shore our marinero takes us into a large
cave on the side of a tuff crater. At one time this cave may have been a lava
tube and has since been eroded away. There are Brown Noddy's and Blue-footed
Boobies roosting along the ledges inside the cave. The water here is
exceptionally clear with visibility to the bottom at over 30 meters. We turn and
look up and the cliff soars another 30 meters above us! |
© Jeff Waugh
Cave at Tagus |
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As we continue out of the cave and towards the cove, we spot
some Galapagos Penguins swimming along towards us. it's difficult to get a good
look at them as they zip by the panga after some fish. They look like the are
flying through the water! A little further along,
our guide spots a few penguins on shore. Our marinero slowly and carefully moves
closer with the panga for a closer look. As we slowly bob up and down in the
waves, we are able to get a great look at these wonderful creatures. |
© Jeff Waugh
Penguins along the shore |
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After a few minutes observing the penguins, we slowly move
along the shoreline looking for other surprises. Not far from the penguins we
spot a Flightless Cormorant standing on the rocks. We slowly approach the
cormorant and are afforded another close look. Soon
we are heading to the landing site for our late afternoon hike... |
© Jeff Waugh
Flightless Cormorant |
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We begin the hike up the dusty trail through the Palo Santo forest towards a viewpoint for Darwin Volcano.
We see an old unmarked and undocumented gravesite a few minutes up the trail. I
haven't met anyone yet who knows who (or what) is buried there. As we climb we are able to get a good look at the saltwater lagoon in one of the nearby craters, and a view back down to our boat in the cove.
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© Jeff Waugh
The trail to the top of the hill... |
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Just about every time I have been here I've seen at least one
Galapagos Hawk, and this time is no exception. It's there waiting for us at the
top of the hill and gives us plenty of time to observe and photograph before it
flies off in search of prey or carrion.
The viewpoint at the end of the trail is worth the climb, and we are there just as the light begins to turn orange before sunset.
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© Jeff Waugh
Galapagos Hawk at the
top |
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© Jeff Waugh
Tagus Cove from near the top of the
hill with the salt lagoon in the foreground
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© Jeff Waugh
Enjoying the view |
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We still have time to sit and enjoy the view before we descend back down the trail.
Tonight we will have good anchorage and stay put until early morning. Then we head south...
To Urvina Bay
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